Picking Up Surfing as a Tall Man: My 6’9” Journey in SoCal
- Niels Bunschoten
- 5 days ago
- 3 min read
Three years ago, I moved to Southern California, leaving behind a 14-year basketball career from high school to D1 NCAA to pro. At 6’9”, I’d spent most of my life on the court, but after quitting, I needed a new outlet. I’ve always loved being active, so I started lifting, picked up boxing, played some pickleball, and even went on runs (though I hate running—I thought it’d be good for me. It wasn’t). But moving to SoCal meant one thing was inevitable: I had to try surfing. As the founder of TFT Designs, where we make dress shirts for tall, slim guys who don’t fit the world’s mold, I’m used to overcoming challenges as a tall man. Surfing, though? That was a whole new beast.
The Physical Challenge: Surfing Is No Joke
I bought an 8ft foamie (foam surfboard) for my 28th birthday, stoked to hit the waves. I thought my athletic background would make surfing a breeze, but I was wrong (serves me right for being cocky). Surfing is exhausting. Paddling out, fighting the current, and (failing at) popping up on the board—it’s a full-body workout that left me gassed. My basketball endurance helped, but the ocean doesn’t care how many dunks you can do. It’s a humbling experience, especially for a tall guy. My long limbs made balancing on the board tricky at first, and my height meant I had to work harder to stay low and stable. But the connection to nature, the mental relaxation, and the physical challenge made it the perfect sport for me. I was hooked, even if I sucked at first.
The Gear Struggle: Nothing Fits a 6’9” Surfer
The physical part was tough, but finding the right gear was even harder. Southern California water is cold, especially in the mornings, so I needed a wetsuit. At 6’9”, that was a nightmare. I tried on countless suits—Rip Curl, Billabong, O’Neill—and nothing fit. The sleeves stopped at my forearms, the legs at my shins, and the torso was either so short I could barely move or way too wide. I took to Reddit for advice, but the responses were brutal: “Give up, surfing is not a tall man’s sport,” “We don’t need more kooks out there,” and “You’re not gonna find anything that fits.” (For the uninitiated, a “kook” is a beginner surfer—basically a noob.) I get it—newbies can be a hassle in the lineup—but the discouragement stung.
After a long search, I finally found SRFACE wetsuits. They offer tall sizes, and their 30-day trial policy gave me confidence to try one. I got an XLT 4/3 suit, and it fit like a glove—long enough in the arms, legs, and torso, with enough stretch to paddle comfortably. It’s held up beautifully over the past two years, keeping me warm at spots like the Huntington Pier and Blackies. My 9’2” longboard, which I upgraded to after the foamie, also suits my height perfectly. It’s wide and thick, giving me the stability I need to ride waves without muscling through turns.
The Surf Community: Not Always Welcoming, But Worth It
The surf community’s reception surprised me. As a tall beginner, I stood out—and not in a good way. Some locals were quick to label me a kook, and I felt the cold shoulder at crowded breaks. Comments like “Surfing isn’t for tall guys” didn’t help. But I also met some awesome people who cheered me on, shared tips, and even lent me boards to try. After two years of surfing, I can now get up on waves decently and love my time out there. The ocean doesn’t care about your height—it’s all about persistence. I’ve learned to ignore the naysayers and focus on the stoke of catching a wave.
Don’t Let Height Stop You: Be the Tall Surfer
Surfing as a 6’9” guy isn’t easy, but it’s worth it. The physical challenge, the gear hunt, the community’s mixed vibes—they’re all part of the journey. If you’re a tall person thinking about surfing, don’t let anyone talk you out of it. Brands like SRFACE are making gear for us, and with the right board (think 9’2” or longer for stability), you can make it work. At TFT Designs, we’re all about empowering tall folks to live confidently—whether that’s in a well-fitted dress shirt or on a wave. So, be the tall surfer in everything you do! What’s your experience with starting a new hobby or sport? Drop a comment—I’d love to hear your story!
Wow!